The Gran Café de la Parroquia Experience

Some experiences are just so rich in culture that they beg to be experienced. For example going to the market to see the hog heads and skinned chickens. Or taking the early morning bus downtown and being squeezed in like sardines. Or going for cemitas at Carmen’s to watch hundreds of sandwiches being made assemble line style. The girls, Diana and I had just one such experience when we stopped by the Gran Café de la Parroquia for a coffee.

We didn’t just go to any Café de la Parroquia but to the Orginal Café established in 1808. Let me tell you just finding a table was a challenge. We fought our way into the mob, craned our necks for a place to sit, and finally staked our claim on a sidewalk table near the marimba band. The place was crowded with patrons, passersby, venders and musicians. We placed our order, four lecheros (coffee and milk), and sat back to take it all in.

The marimba players were camped out on the corner wailing on their instruments. They were loud; we could hardly here each other talk; it was great. While we waited and listened, there was an endless parade of venders coming by our table.

In Mexico sidewalk vending is the norm, but it took some getting used to for us. Funny thing is the establishments don’t seem to mind. Could you imagine eating at a restaurant in the States, and someone off the streets trying to sell you a desert? Anyway, we persisted, saying “no” to candy, shirts, watches, cigars, sunglasses and even a check of our blood pressure. But we broke down when it came to the carved and painted bookmarks. Hey, it’s all part of the experience.

Presently the waiter came with our coffee. About an inch of strong black coffee served in a glass. Then a second waiter brought a pot of hot milk. Starting at glass level he poured gradually lifting it until he was pouring from a foot above the glass. It was quite a show, a great glass of coffee, and a grand experience at the Gran Café de la Parroquia.